She tells me to begin with natural lighting, near a window if possible—"there's no better source than the sun"—since artificial overheads can accentuate dark circles and wrinkles."Think about movies, when a criminal is being interrogated," Phan says."There's just one spotlight on the suspect, and it never looks good." Lighting from below is similarly unflattering.
Before going live, she simply coats her lashes with plenty of black mascara and adds an ultrapigmented lipstick to make her features stand out and distract from any skin imperfections.
When we smile, for example, blood becomes more visible in our cheeks, regardless of skin tone, so it's no surprise that blush helps to fake "happy! I'm not concerned with looking happy, though—I'm aiming for hot.